I just wanted to share with everyone what I have been working on this year. My weekend class has ended, so now I won’t have the easy excuse of saturday class time to sew. I’ll have to put my foot down on the weekends and just do it. However, I haven’t really sewn anything all year, to be honest. What I have been doing with my sewing time is fit adjustments.
I am taking a class on Wednesday nights on making shirt’s/blouse. We are using the Pati Palmer’s method to fit the pattern to our bodies. Pati Palmer’s method is making all the adjustments on the tissue paper without making a muslim (fabric mock-up).
I am using Shirt B from New Look 6407 for my class project. The fabric I intend to use for this pattern is underneath the pattern envelope. I am not 100% sure what kind of fabric it is, but I believe it is an Imported Italian Cotton. It is very nice to the touch and a lot of my classmates seem to love it. I got lucky because it was free as long as I used it for my class project. Most of the shirt is going to be in the strip fabric, however, I plan to do the collar in a white cotton.
If you know anything about pattern tissue paper, you can see I went mad scientist on it. The front bodice got a full bust adjustment, which I will have to do always. 😦
The back is as hacked up as the front. The extra gridded paper on the side seams is a 1 inch safety seam allowance. 😉 I decided to extend the length of the shirt, so when I sit down, there is no butt crack showing. I don’t really like wearing belts and they don’t always seem to work.
All the adjustments I had to do on New Look 6407:
1/2 in Broad Back
3/4 Full Bust plus lower dart 1/4
2 in Waistline for side seam
3/4 in Forward Shoulders
1 in Full Sleeve
2 1/2 in Finish length
I also started another shirt because my teacher will be taking the summer off and it will be hard to get clothes fitted during that time. This pattern is McCall’s Mc5661. The cool thing about this pattern is that it is a Pati Palmer pattern and it has marks for the adjustments.
This is the front bodice. As usual I had to do a full bust adjustment. However, that created a dart that I did not want. I am not a huge bust dart fan, so we had to move the dart. We moved it to the top of the bodice, around the neckline and then spread it out. Watching my teacher doing this was like watching a doctor do brain surgery. I got the fun part of patching it all up.
Because we move the dart the tissue paper created a strange bubble at the top. From my viewpoint looking down, it doesn’t look too bad because it just looks like my bust is higher. Which would be awesome, but it probably looks weird straight on. We are hoping that the fabric will make the bubble disappear. I’ll do a fabric fitting once everything is cut out. I haven’t picked the fabric, but it probably be a nice Charmeuse or another Satin fabric.
So that is what I am working on. With the New Look pattern, I need to cut the collar and finish marking the pieces and then I’ll be doing a fabric fitting for final adjustments before I begin sewing. The McCall’s pattern, I need to do a final tissue fitting before I can start cutting fabric out. The Wednesday night classes ends in June and it would be nice to have to shirts finished before the end of the semester.
I wonder if other sewers out there have different methods for fitting patterns and what are they?